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  • Kathy Emerick

Saint Laurent:Leaving Gendered Fashion Behind

French fashion house Saint Laurent debuted its Autumn Winter 2023 menswear collection at Paris' historic Bourse de Commerce.

A recurring theme this fashion season seems to be functionality, and Saint Laurent's Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello provided his own interpretation through chic workwear staples: Models strode out in oversized blazers with dramatically sharp epaulets paired with slim-fitting pencil skirts for an '80s-tinged office uniform. Leather bomber jackets were layered over pin-stripped midi skirts; beige silk turtlenecks were tucked into fitted black trouser. Imposing top-heavy silhouettes are a key part of the collection; several models donned thick scarves wrapped around boxy shoulders, adding texture to the exaggerated shape. All of these looks were completed with simple, unassuming accessories: hoop earrings, aviator sunglasses, leather gloves, sheer tights and elegant pumps.

True to form for Saint Laurent, the color palette of navy, gray, and deep merlot was mostly somber, but did occasionally pick up warmth with the use of red tartan, camel, and chocolate brown. Pointed heels and aviator sunglasses appeared uniformly on models throughout while most accessory variation came in the form of leather gloves and jewelry.

The metallic sheen of wide wrist cuffs, hoop earrings, and anklets over tights added a sophistication to oversized coach’s jackets in black leather. This blending of the ordinary, the elegant, and the dark was a compelling continuation of Saint Laurent’s menswear, thus fulfilling Vaccarello’s genderless dream.

Overall, the largely monochrome collection is highly reminiscent of '80sworkwear, characterized by shoulders pumped up with extra padding, and turtleneck-under-sweater moments. The collection also evokes the '80s glam rock aesthetic, with a plethora of rich leathers, smooth silks and luscious velvets layered seamlessly.


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